To the village!

About 2 weeks ago, I sped away in a bus on the rough roads of Benin: Twas a journey north, to the center of Benin known as the hilly regions or Les Collines. Also on the bus were the diecteur of the school I will be working at and my counterpart, a fellow english teacher. We were bound for my village, whiwh is a 15 minutes motorcycle ride away from Glazoué, a big market town and probably the closest town that you'll find on a map. When I got to my village I was struck by how tranquil and calm it was. No paved roads, no electricity, and surrounded by fields of rice, yams, PEANUTS, and corn. I'm not gonna lie, it was a bit startling at first to arrive in the village and think "oh my shnap! This is small." 

But the world has it's ways and the very night of my arrival I fell sick with a malady that I can only describe as a small monster living in my intestinal track, doing acrobatics and causing me to run to the latrine, which was a good 3 mintues walk away. 3 minutes is forever when a monster is inside you. Is that too much information? Sorry 'bout it; Not sorry 'bout it!

Anyways, so my host family who I stayed with for the post visit grew very alarmed at my unwillingness to eat and my sicklynature in general, so at 22h00 they decide to take me to the local hospital, despite my vehement protests. Alas, they persuaded me to go and after waking up the nurses and convinving them not to give me a shot, I got some medicine and started to fall in love with the village. The nurses were hilarious and super friendly with me, even when I became delirious and started saying weird-mariah things. And my host family was so caring.

The next day I woke up feeling 100 times better; the sun was shining, little goats and piglets frolicked through the streets. Life was good.

The rest of my visit I spent trying to practice greetings in Idaatcha, the local language and I went out to the fields with my host family. It's so incredible to feel SO comforted and SO welcomed in a tiny village where I hardly know anyone, nor do I actually speak the language. I'm loving these vibes and look forward to officially moving in!

K, internet time is almost up! loveeee

A Lesson in African Hospitality

A Lesson in African Hospitality

This past Sunday afternoon, my maman beninoise was preparing “pate rouge.” Pate is a main staple item in West Africa, serving as a base for various sauces. Basically, it’s equivalent to rice or pasta. Pate Blanche is made from ground up corn (or in Niger, millet) mixed with boiling water and then mixed and mixed, stirred and stirred with a wooden paddle instrument. It has a general consistency of gelatinous mashed potatoes. I’ve never missed rice so badly. HA. It’s actually not sooo bad. Especially pate rouge. Pate rouge is made by making a basic tomato sauce FIRST with the boiling water, and then stirring in the flour. SO good. It was like all the flavor of sauce, minus all the oil. Unfortunately, my maman doesn’t like it that much, thus looks like I’ll be eating the fermented pate blanche, Akasa, more often than desired.

 Another favorite of mine is Bissap, a juice made by boiling dried hibiscus flower petals and adding loads of sugar. My maman beninoise has taken note of my cries of delight whenever I touch the sweet nectar to my lips. THUS, we have it quite often.

Last Sunday, my mother was busy preparing pate rouge, chicken wings and fried fish for her husband, three kids, one american lady (me), and two miscellaneous family members. We all sat down to lunch and within five minutes the doorbell rang.

Two family friends stop by and, having arrived while we are dining, are obligated to sit down and join us. Diiiiing! Oh, what’s that? Ten minutes later, the bell has rung again with papa beninois’s family friend and 17 year old daughter in tow. No more pate rouge, but a quick jaunt to a nearby food stand provides some pate blanche and there’s plenty of fish, chicken, and just enough bissap. Riiiiiiiiiiiing! Oh, hey it’s the preacher we talked to last week. “Larissa (my 18 year old sister), run out and get him a cold sprite. And more pate blanche!”

Laughing at all these unexpected guests I joke at how popular the family must be to have so many visitors. Maman beninoise laughs and asks what would happen in the U.S. I mutter out something about offering visitors something to drink, but how there probably wouldn’t be enough food to serve 5 unexpected guests. Besides, people don’t generally show up unannounced in the U.S. My maman beninoise again laughs at this and recounts when she first married papa beninois. His brother had come over for dinner and she’d made just enough pate for the three of them. However, just as the meal was starting, her new mother-in-law shows up unannounced. She quickly ran out to buy some pate from a nearby vendor. On her return to the house her bemused mother-in-law shares some essential advice, especially for Africa. When you’re cooking a meal, always make a little extra. You never know who’s gonna stop by!

My experiences thus far in Africa highlight the value of hospitality and making every visitor, friend, distant relative, and guest, FEEL a part of the African family. I had it explained to me as wanting to treat guests so well that they’ll always want to return. The social dynamic is incredibly hospitable, marked by profound generousness, and a willingness to both give and take as needed.

C’est BON

I’m gonna need some pressure to be a blog writer. I wrote that last part and then lazily went to bed without describing what I was looking forward to. And NOW I’m already in Benin!!! AND it’s incredible.

I think I was looking forward to creating some of the same experiences I had in Niger, here in Benin. Like playing with children, attempting to make traditional sauces (minus the massive amount of oil they use), and walking up to strangers and trying to make conversation. The longer I’m here, the more I realize that I don’t necessarily and shouldn’t be trying to search for the same sensations and experiences of Niger. My experiences in Benin are as unique and different as each person is individual and unique in their own ways. I can’t imagine my impressions of Niger ever leaving me and I guard PC Niger close to my heart. However, the new adventures of Benin have already been incredible.

Meeting all the new stagiares/trainees in Philadelphia was filled with that amusing nervousness and chit chat that surrounds all great liftoffs. In Benin, there are four groups Health, Business, Education, and Environment. All four groups undergo training at the same time, thus that makes about 53 of us!

My first impressions of Benin sounded something like this: “Oh my goodness! Oh my goodness! No WAY! Is that water? What?! Look at all the greeeeen down there. No WAY! Yayayayayaayaay!” The climate here is definitely tropical. Warm humidity that quickly creates a thin layer of sweat, along with lush trees of the banana, mango, and coconut variety. We spent a couple days in Cotonou and despite feeling minorly isolated from real life, some volunteers who’ve been here a year took us on some foot tours.

First, let us discuss the market. Not even the BIG market. Your average market in the South is filled, FILLED with produce. Giant avocados, green leafy lettuce, plump carrots, palm nuts, crabs, fish, oranges, BANANAS, PINEAPPLE, chickens, huge arrays of spices, peppers…I could continue. And probably will on other occasions. Btw, pineapple=100cfa (around 500cfa=$1) =life is goooood.

We then moved out to Porto Novo where we live dotted throughout the capital with our host families. There was a juice cocktail gathering for our first encounters with the fambam (family). My encounter went something like this:  Having just come back from the bathroom I hear fellow trainees calling my name. They have found my family. I walk over and there’s a sassy petite 18 year old grinning at me with open arms. Her name is Larissa and she is so fabulous, words do not describe. She immediately gave me a bisou on each cheek and ushered me over to meet 16 year old Jomeo.

Let me give you the break down on the familial situation. Mama is a midwife and works 1 day for 24 hours and then has 2 days off. Papa does something with business management regarding potable water and is away during the week only to return on weekends. Jomeo is NOT my real brother (but kinda as that’s what I call him.) I have two little brothers. The youngest I have not yet encountered, but the 14 year old named Leodoric (Leo), just came back yesterday! And he was first in his class for English this year. Oh heyyyyy!

So far we haven’t done many sessions on teaching. It’s been mostly French, French, and more French. Which is great! I def need fine tuning and improvement, so I appreciate it. It’s fun to have interesting discussions (what is the most essential in life: love, work, honor, money, health, etc.), to chat, to learn new vocab, and to have those “aha” moments about things that have always been confusing. And Beninese French is beaucoup different…accents, word choice, etc. Overall things are great. I feel happy and awkward and laugh at myself each day. La vie est belle. Ou bien?

All in all, Benin is incredible!

Next Step

One of my favorite memories from college was when my dear friend dragged me on a 22 mile backpacking trip through Death Valley. This being my very first backpacking trip, with just the first few steps carrying the pack on my back, I made a dramatic “ugh” noise. As a watched the landscape change from reed marshes to grass fields dotted with hills to canyon walls, I was amazed at how easily the landscape changed with the simple placement of my feet.

Imagine how the great pioneer women must have felt crossing the continental United States! They probably felt worn down and weary at times, but they pushed through. Thanks to my friend Lindsay’s mother, I now have a yellow sun bonnet (matched only in greatness by Lindsay’s green sun bonnet.) Clearly, I now have the wardrobe to move forward once again.

I feel changed by the heart wrenching (and sometimes gut-wrenching…literally) experiences I’ve been fortunate enough to feel my way through.  In a way, I am grateful for them because they make me feels alive. Like my spirit is lighting up and growing.

That’s all a bit abstract, I know, so let's commence with some concrete Benin adventures! 

No One Ever Learned to Walk by Taking One Step

"Do not be discouraged if your plans do not succeed the first time. 
No one learns to walk by taking only one step." 
Catherine Pulsifer

This quote was first introduced to me by sweet Sabia, a friend and fellow Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger.  It has stuck with me ever since she pointed it out to me, scrawled out in black sharpie on the back of a folder, while we sat through the evacuation conference. 

To me it says, onward fair lass, VAS-Y...keep moving forward. Towards your goals and dreams.

THUS, I begin a bold new adventure to the liiiitle West African country, Benin. My wonderous Grandmama pointed out that the country is shaped like a key. Perhaps it is the key to hope, friendship, inspiration, growth!?! I'm not sure, but I am sure that it is the key to the next step in my life.

I am coming to you Benin. With an open heart and mind. And of course, a big ol' SMILE.